Nightmare on the Orient Express – Making it to Taishan



Sun, 10 Sept 2006

Qingdao – Taishan

Mode of transport: Train (hard seat)

Cost: 60 RMB

Duration: approx 8 hours

Squashed into a window seat with 6 pairs of legs cris-crossing with yours and 100 pairs of eyes staring down at your seat: Priceless

Qingdao – Taishan. Ancient train. Seats made out of wood with thin vinyl ‘cushions’ and 90-degree, cardboard-like backrest. No air-conditioning. Another 8 hours. A total nightmare.

0026 hrs:

Local passengers plonk their asses onto any available crack or crevice they could find. Villagers and merchants wrestled on board with oversized sacks of merchandise, shoving them under the seats and above the overhead compartments. RBW bags (red, blue and white striped bags) were a common sight.

A baby was wailing behind me. I tried to turn but my canned-sardine position prevented such motion. Mike stared in horror as a mother pulled out a few bottles of sweetened green tea and handed them out to some wide-eyed kids. As the kids got their high out of the deadly caffeinated syrup, Mike knew that it was going to be another long night.

0137 hrs:

More passengers got on the train. Aisle was full with standing passengers.

0206 hrs:

Even more passengers were crammed into the carriage. Aisle was exploding.

0330 hrs:

Pandemonium broke out. Train was packed beyond imagination. Not an inch of space was visible.

Passengers could not alight. Lady A threw her luggage out the window and jumped out. Guy B followed suit, literally climbing over the sea of fellow passengers as he made his way towards the open window.

Mike’s jaw dropped.

0411 hrs:

My bottle of water was already half empty. I stared at the packed corridor outside the toilet and back at the 100 pairs of eyes preying on my seat.

No. You are not leaving your seat. Think of a happy place…la..la..la.

After nth stop:

I couldn’t find my legs. I never knew I had such a bony ass. And my head was about to fall off after swinging like a pendulum for 8 hours. We have reached Taishan.

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